Bird List

At the beginning of December, I have now moved on to 174 bird species for Thailand.  So many still to see.  Its all rather exciting really because I can take my time and really get to know each new bird.  No sense of pressure either.  I sit on the balcony watching Olive-backed Sunbird feeding in the foliage of the potted plants, as confident in their calls and jizz as I would of robin or blue tit back home. Just don't let me become complacent and start compaining that there are no birds here.

Spoon-billed Sandpiper

Sorry it has been so long since I last updated my blog but we seem to be so busy and time just slips away.  You have probably read Eunice's email so I will try to add something slighhtly different.
I gather from reading the weather forecast that the UK is rather cold at the moment.  No such problem here.  The temperature dropped to a chilly 27C and the locals rushed out to buy their winter wear of fleeces and quilted jackets but they were far too hasty.  The wind shifted to the south again and it has remained in the thirties ever since. 
With great excitement and after months of waiting, our boxes finally arrived from the UK and we hastily ripped them open having both forgotten what we had packed.  After the bird books there followed fleeces, thick socks, walking boots and woolly hats.  What were we thinking!  Anyway it has all been stuffed in a wardrobe and will no doubt, stay there until we return.
So what have we been up to.  Eunice has told you of all the social events such as the pirate parties and her flirtation with pole dancing once again in Nana, the famous area of ill repute. (Exhibit One as evidence.)  Needless to say, I was not with her.

I will focus on the more mundane.  At the beginning of November we hired a car and went an hour and a half west of Bangkok to Khok Kham which is an extensive area of mangrove forest and salt pans.  We were fortunate in the fact that the day was fairly cool so were able to be outside most of the day.  As we scanned the thousands of waders searching for possible spoon-billed sandpiper, a local man with a fishing rod attached to his bike rode up and asked us what we were looking for.  I rather evasively told him we were just searching for anything of interest.  He immediately enquired if I had found any Spoon-billed sandpiper yet because he had seen two that morning and pointed to a picture of one stuck on his motorbike fairing.  He offered to take us to where he had seen them and beckoned us to follow him.  We jumped in the car and shot off down the dirt track after him, mindful of whether we were going to be lead into the middle of nowhere and then get turned over.  After a few kilometeres we stopped and he asked me if he could borrow my bins so he could scan the pools.  Reluctantly I handed them over but stuck to him like limpet.  He then handed my bins back and told me he would be back soon with a telescope.  Now this was getting really improbable.  Even Thais birders don't own binoculars let alone telescopes.  He disapperared and I thought that would be the last I would hear about it.  To my surprise, half and hour later he reappeared with a telescope and after scanning the area for over an hour, proceeded to locate a single spoon-billed sandpiper (photo attached).  It turned out that he was the famous Mr Tii, the man in  Thailand for locating Spoon-billed sandpiper.  We swopped cards and he invited us to visit his cafe if we were ever in the area again. A great contact made. 

The following week I was on a residential trip with the Y8 pupils.  This was to Kanchanaburi which is where you find the Bridge over the River Kwai.  The bridge is a bit of a disappointment as there is a brightly coloured train that goes backwards and forwards carrying tourists over the river but the museum is very moving and well presented. Our hotel was about and hour further north near Hellfire Pass in an area of steep wooded hills and river valleys.  I have attached a view from my hotel room for your interest. 

It was a great week with trips on a long-tailed boat up the river to a stunning set of limestone caves then walking along a section of the Burma railway known as Hellfire Pass, an area of stunning beauty where over 12000 allied troops and 90000 locals died building the railway by hand.  By contrast, we swam in the crystal clear waters of Erawan Pools where the fish nibbled at your feet once you stood still.  It was like a scene from South Pacific except it was stuffed full with overweight of russian tourists who did nothing for my balihigh.  There is no such thing as paradise. 

Once I had returned, Eunice and I went down to the WWF local reserve of Bang Pu to visit a Bird Fair there.  It was surprisingly good and we made a load of new contacts as well as buying some rather nice bird pictures.  We also discovered a large part of the reserve we knew nothing about so we will visit again early in the day this weekend when it is a little cooler.

Last weekend, we had the final part of our Thai culture training.  This involved going to Ayutthaya which is one of the old capitals of Thailand.  Here we were given a cultural show of dancing, Thai boxing, music, local crafts and games before being taken around the area to visit historical places of interest dotted around this world hertage site. To finish the day we were given a superb meal aboard a boat which sailed up the river on a evening cruise.  I can't see barnsley doing that for their new teachers any time soon!

   

   

Birding!!

You just can not please everybody.  Some say too much and others say not enough birds.  Well this email is mostly about birds so you can choose whether you want to read it or not!  I have included a few snaps taken with my out of date equipment.  No particular order but hopefully of interest.

I have not worked hard at pushing up my Thailand List but it has now crept up to 133.  Every morning we are woken up by Magpie Robin singing outside our window and I almost tread on Zebra Doves, Common Mynas and Pied Fantail as I walk to school.  Often an Indian Roller is sitting on top of the goal posts and four Black-naped Orioles flew out of a tree in KS one playground last week. 

The big numbers of autumn waders have long since passed through and each time I make my way down to Bang Po, which is the nearest piece of sea to home (about 15kms), the cast of players changes. 

Last time there were hundreds of Brown-headed Gulls with two Slender-Billed Gulls and Three Black-tailed Gulls hiding amongst them.  The time before, the sky was filled with hundreds of Whiskered Terns and a single Gull-Billed Tern.  Four species of Kingfisher are regular and, last time, a flock of Ashy Minivets flew through.  Little Cormorant, Indian Cormorant, Little Heron, Egrets and Pond Heron abound. Just up the road is a place known as Old Siam. 

It a collection of reconstructed half sized models of key Thai historical buildings.  Beside it are the Muang Boran fishing ponds Which teem with birds.  Drongos, Bee-eaters, Shrikes and Flycatchers are common. as well as Swallows and Asian Swift. 

Visit to Khao Yai our NNR during half term was one of mixed fortunes.  Whilst making our way through the rain forest, the trees were full of bird call and song.  But seeing them was another matter altogether. It was highly frustrating that after being lathered in sweat and covered in leeches, I had seen decent views of hardly a single bird for over three hours of walking. 

It had its compensations.  We wandered into a troop of Gibbons which surrounded us with their howling mournful cries and swung from tree to tree.  I had good views of a male and female Red-headed Trogon and Blue-winged Pitta heard calling from the forest floor.

 

Once out of the forest the birding hotted up with magnificent Great-eared Nightjars wheeling around our heads at dusk and Black-capped Kingfisher on the river. 

Birds of prey included Black Kite, Shikra, Japanese Sparrowhawk, Oriental Honey Buzzard and Changeable Hawk.  Yellow. -browed, Two Barred Greenish and Arctic Warbler were common as was Asian Brown Flycatcher and Ashy Drongo.  

Only another 810 or so to go

Apologies to none birders.

Enjoy

Pictures of Chiang Mai

You can see a Blue Rock thrush on top of this roof if you look hard!

Manbags.  You either love them or hate them.  In Thailand, almost every self respecting young chap has one and they come in a wide range of shapes and sizes.  Most hide an ipod or MP3 player and often you will see them talking into their bag which suggests they have a phone in there as well.  You will be pleased to know that I have gone native and bought myself one and very useful it is too.  Mine is made of a woven material with an elephant pattern running through it and I carry all sorts in it, anti mosquito gel, mobile phone, BTS card, antiseptic spray and tissues to name but a few. 

So what else have Eunice and I been up to.  The biggest highlight was last weekend when we flew up to the north of Thailand to Chiang Mai.  This is a small, bustling, walled city surrounded by steep hills which has almost a wild-west feel about it.  It is full of western tourists and, as a result, is full of market stalls which cling to every available pitch, spilling onto the pavements and making progress along them an adventure in itself.   Chiang Mai is also higher and a few degrees cooler than Bangkok although last weekend the temperature dropped to a chilly mid to upper twenties.

The purpose of the visit was to do a recognisance visit for the Year Six residential in January, which of course, Eunice will be doing.  My residential will be with Year Eights to the area around the bridge over the River Kwai in November.  It’s tough I can hear you say.  Anyway, back to Chiang Mai.  Our first night was spent at a residential centre half an hour drive to the north of the city which will be Eunice’s base for most of the week.  It is comprised of a number of small, modern apartment blocks which house six children and one member of staff in each apartment.  They are situated in superb grounds with playing fields, nature areas and small lakes all nestling in a steep sided valley.   White-breasted Waterhen trot around the lakeside and Olive-backed sunbird abound in the numerous trees surrounding the site.  On Friday evening we were taken to a restaurant located in the middle of a small lake and serving yet more wonderful Thai food.  (Both Eunice and I both love the food and yet we have both lost weight.)

 On Saturday morning we were up early and drove for an hour or so to the north and into the mountains around Chiang Dao which is one of the highest peaks in Thailand and not far from the Burmese border.  We left the winding tarmac road then bumped along a dirt track for a further couple of miles, finally pulling into a village.  The houses cling to the side of the hill, are built on stilts and made of wood and sticks. The livestock run over the verandas and the family pigs are tied to the posts holding up the floor.  The adult locals met us with polite but wary smiles and the children swarmed around us, inquisitive to know where we were from.  The hill tribes are all immigrants who have been given land by the king but not Thai citizenship and some groups have been this way for hundreds of years.  Eunice’s class will study these hill tribes as one of her topics next term and gifts will be exchanged.

 We moved through the village and climbed steeply through the rice fields before plunging deep into the rainforest along one of the trails.  The rain poured down and mosquitoes whined around our ears as we pushed through dense jungle.  Exotic calls from invisible birds such as a Hill Myna, frustrated my efforts to see them and my glasses steamed up from the humidity as soon as I raised my binoculars to my eyes.  The forest was alive with the mechanical drones and buzzing of scores of insects each staking a piece of territory as their own.   For both Eunice and I it was as if we were in our own adventure movie.  

 After a few hours trekking, we reached another village similar to the first where the local women, dressed in traditional costume over the top of tee shirt and shorts donned for our benefit no doubt, came to sell us local crafts of jewellery.  How can you resist?

The mini buses picked us up at this point and took us to the camp site Eunice will be using for one night during her residential visit.  It could persuade me to take up camping again!  After sampling a delicious yellow curry for lunch, we set off once again to visit a last hill tribe.  Here we were taken to look at the school, a rough wooden and concrete structure with open sides and a tin roof.  The playground for the Foundation pupils was uneven, bare earth with a rusting swing at one end.  Yet it was viewed with pride and a building of obvious value to the community, a lesson for us all about the importance of education.  We were taken on trip around the village with the usual train of children streaming behind us, shyly calling out ‘hello’ as they tested their skills in English. 

At the end of an exhausting day we finally drove the hour or so through the mountains back to our hotel, glimpsing the elephants being taken to bathe in the river as we speed past with Drongos swooping down off the telegraph wires.  It had been a long, hot thought-provoking and exciting day which we finished off with a cool glass of beer.      

Flight of the Gibbons

Last weekend we had an extra day of holiday so it was a three day weekend.  We all wanted to make the best of our time so we booked a bus and went to Ko Samet which is one of the nearer decent beaches to Bangkok. It is not too far from the Cambodian border and is a teardrop of an island hanging half a. mile off the mainland.  It is a 2 ½.  hour drive and then a speed boat to the island.  Since we arrived in the dark the speedboat journey is an experience by itself.  However after about twenty minutes the engines slow and the boat swings into a bay lined with twinkling lights and jugglers throwing blazing sticks into the air. You collect your luggage and step off the back of the boat into a warm sea, with fine white sand crunching under your toes at every step.  Soon you.  have settled into your room and are sitting out in the open, under the night sky eating your Mussaman curry. You enjoy a beer and a bit of chat with your friends then set off to bed. Then the blood party animals start and the bass grinds on until 4.00 in the morning.  By which time I was climbing up the wall.  At one point I was out of bed and on my way to the disco to ask them to 'turn the bloody music down.  Don't you know people are trying to sleep 'then I realised that I sounded just like Victor Meldrew and went and sat on a beach lounger instead. Then the sun came up.  Everyone talks about it as if it is paradise, but we weren't that impressed (and it wasn't our age, the others had mixed views too!). The island is meant to be a National Nature Reserve but it has become very. degraded with litter and rubbish everywhere, especially behind the coastal stretch.

But there were highlights. The first was to get out of Bangkok as we live and work in the same place - our living room overlooks the school and I hadn't realised how claustrophobic it was until I saw countryside and the sea. Secondly we didn. 't have to get up at 5.30am and be in at work for 6.30am then work til 5.30pm, quick tea and then bed! Thirdly we went snorkelling. Neither of us had done this before but nearly everyone else had. We (14. of us) hired a speed boat for 3 hours and were taken out to coral reefs. I put on the mask and nearly freaked out as my nose was covered and I couldn't breathe. I think being asthmatic this was too much for me. But dad talked me through it and eventually I controlled the panic, breathed through my mouth and finally put my heasd underwater. Well I was just entranced - the life below water was fascinating - the colours and shapes of fish and coral and other sea life. So I snorkelled twice at 2 different spots and would do it again!

On Thursday we went out with Dad's workmates. He is really happy now - loves his work - in fact he feels that he is not doing enough to earn his money. He works with pupils and has always enjoyed building their self esteem so now that is. what he does all day and finishes and doesn't have to bring anything home including worries. And he gets paid more than me! So things are really looking up - he's not tired or stressed and looking relaxed.

So to today and to the Flight of the Gibbons.  It was quite fantastic. It was provided by the secondary school as a team building opportunity for the new staff.  However I was allowed to take Eunice along as my partner.  We set off at 6.15 this morning in the relative cool of the early morning.  The sun was just rising and it was already 28degrees. It was a one hour journey down to Khoao Khieo near to Chonburi and it was great to get out of Bangkok city once again and drive past horizons of steep wooded hills framed by palm trees and scrub land.  When we entered the park, the buses were directed up steep, rutted tracks that wound into the hills. 

We finally came to a halt in a heavily wooded area with the exotic calls of Hornbills and Laughing Thrush to complete the atmosphere of a tropical rainforest.  We nervously collected together in an open-sided wooden hut and were introduced to our guides.  The harnesses were then strapped round our bodies and we set off into the forest, climbing a steep narrow path that wove through the dense undergrowth.  At one point one of our guides.  shot out his hand like lightening and when he opened it he revelled a lizard trapped between his finger and thumb.  One of the other guides whispered to me 'He comes from the north.  They are very poor up there.  They eat anything! '.  The other guide, aware of our western sensibilities released the lizard which scuttled off comically, head raised and legs akimbo to live another day.  Finally the undergrowth thinned and we stood at the base of towering rainforest giant.  Spiralling up around the side of the tree was a staircase.  It was like something from Tarzan.   Eagerly we mounted the steps and climbed upwards until we reached the foliage of the canopy. A narrow platform was constructed around the trunk.  We collected together and waited apprehensively, chatting nervously about what was to come.  A zip wire was strung out across the abyss to the next tree.  I glanced down to the foliage far below us.  These really are tall trees. The view in front of us was breathtaking, treetops extending far into the distance before they climbed.  a steep ridge and disappeared from sight.  An eagle circled lazily along the ridge, riding the thermals of the sweltering heat.  Cicadas buzzed and swifts swept past us, hawking for insects amongst the upper branches.

  

One of our two guides launched himself into space and swept across the void to a similar platform 50 metres away.  Eunice was up first.  Our guide clipped her safety wire to the zip wire and she nervously shuffled to the edge, her toes hanging over the platform.  The guide repeated the safety instructions and Eunice carefully positioned her hands in the correct manner.  She glanced back at me nervously at which point the guide gave her a shove and she was off.  Feet dangling, adrenaline pumping and wind whistling, she sped across the chasm to arrive safely at the other side.  When I joined her a few minutes later her eyes were still shining with excitement and the sense of achievement.

'Do you remember the time we went to the Tivoli Gardens on the Ferris Wheel?' She asked.  I nodded remembering how as the wheel had slowly rotated she had clung to me as if her life depended on it.

'I never thought I would be doing this.  It is fantastic.  I wouldn't have missed this for the world. '.

Twenty three zip wires, 2 aerial bridges and two plunging abseils of 30 metres and nothing had changed our sense of achievement or exhilaration.  As we both commented to each other on the trip back, new experiences, it's what we came to Thailand for and it isn't disappointing.

       

Gmail

If you want to make comments on this blog then, from what I. understand, you need to have a gmail account, let me know what it is then I can invite you on.
Today we tried to by an Advantage card for the Novotel. It took 2 hours and a walk along a Bangkok motorway to an ATM before we finally secured a temporary card. Sometimes things are so frustrating out here but we smile and everyone smiles back. Not. a bad way to be really.   

12th September 2010

Time flies! The main news is that Neil is working!! He was approached by the school because a new learning support teacher just did not turn up when the rest of us did in August. It must have been a bit of a shock for the school but they approached Neil and when they found out that he had a lot of special needs knowledge they took him on. I can hear Phil sighing! But Neil is loving it - he works in SECONDARY and is in classes supporting the children which has always been his interest

‘Up every morning at 5, it’s a wonder that we keep alive tired and yawning, upon this cold morning’, only it isn’t cold and I really enjoy going in to work. I support pupils throughout Secondary both in classes and on a one to one basis. It is a real privilege being a part of the lessons and watching the different staff teach. My days whizz by and they pay me as well. It’s great to be working in a different age group and I am learning masses. I’m in science with Years 7 and 8, geography with years 7, 8 and 9 and English with years 7 and 11. I am doing work reviews with year 11 students and have responsibility for Learning Support in Year 10. Hopefully it will give us enough money to buy a car fairly soon so we can start exploring the fabulous nature reserves not too far away.

Next week, as part of a secondary team building event, Eunice and I (Eunice as my dependant!) will go to beautiful pristine forest to do something called Flight of the Gibbons. I’ll tell you more once I’ve been but I know it involves flying through the treetops on ropes!

Last weekend Neil decided to give me a treat and took me, on Sunday, by taxi to the Skytrain then to the river. We waited (I was worried we were going to the snake farm!) and then a boat came that looked like a house on water and ferried us to the Marriott Hotel half a mile down river. There then followed a truly decadent day. From 11.30am to 3pm we were wined and dined for brunch. It was nothing like I have experienced before. The food was incredible with everything from traditional breakfast to BBQ meat and fish; from oysters, crab and lobster to every cold meat you can think of; from smoked fish (lots of salmon) to hummus, olives and salads; from the biggest chocolate fountain to a table groaning with desserts and from dim sum to a wonderful cheese table. Our wine glasses were constantly filled and we could have got sozzled on cocktails, etc, etc. We were inside an oak panelled room so there was air conditioning but we also went (half way through the meal) (did I just write 'meal'? More like a food safari!) outside to sit in the lush, tropical grounds in a Salle under the palm trees, just to have a break before we started again. We really had to pace ourselves otherwise we would have been ill! Finally, 3 o’clock arrived and we boarded the boat ride back, gazing at the amazing Bangkok skyline of modern skyscrapers on a backdrop of towering cumulus clouds. The monsoon is never far away at this time of year.

We are now settling into the life style. Meals out every night, BBQs round the pool and we have increased the housekeeper’s hours to come twice a week now I’m a working man. She cleans, washes, irons, folds even my underpants. (Maurice, who lives next door, claims his maid makes origami figures out of his undies. Hence the expression ‘is that a rearing stallion in your trousers or just a piece of origami!’). Back to Khun Sia, she also does most of our shopping and sews buttons on my trousers. Talking of which, I am rather compromised because when I came out to Bangkok, I had no intentions of working so as a result I have only two pairs of trousers and a few shirts. So, on the recommendation of Eunice’s Head of Year we set off on the Skytrain to Nana on Sukumvit Road. It is a notorious red light area and lots of butt ugly farang try to re-kindle their youth by cruising this road. It turns your stomach a bit. But the street is vibrant and full of tailors, hence our visit there. We made our way to Marty’s the tailor. You walk into the air conditioned shop to be greeted on both sides by rows and rows of fabrics in a dazzling range of colours. The shop is run by an Indian family who speak excellent English and pamper you with drinks whilst they take every measurement conceivable. I told them I would like a white shirt and twenty different shades of white in a range of textures were laid in front of me. Did I want two breast pockets or one, how did I want my collar, was it to be slim fit, the choice was bewildering. I selected three pairs of trousers, seven shirts and a range of ties which I will collect next week. It makes you feel so special! After we left the tailors we went two hundred metres down Sukumvit and to a superb restaurant called Cabbages and Condoms. A percentage of your money is donated to birth control charities. It was night time and you walk through a romantic garden with soft lighting to show you the way. It was Eunice who pointed out that the lampshades were all crafted out of condoms. We then sat in a room festooned with fairy lights hanging amongst the creepers that dangle from the roof and had yet another superb meal. Eunice had noticed on the menu that for an extra 60 baht you could have an invigorating foot massage and we both willingly went to the adjoining room full of anticipation. More on that next time.

We had a busy day yesterday visiting the best hospital in Bangkok. No, not because we over-ate last week. It is like a huge international hotel - super clean and efficient - but it also hosts a huge ex-pat fair which we visited to look at crafts and go to stalls about wine, daily British newspaper to order, (which Eunice is engrossed in at this very moment but true to form did not arrive until half way through Sunday afternoon) The British Club(!), learning to dive, where to send my 'maid' to learn how to cook for me, holidays once a month for Bangkokians (not tourists of-course!), how to get any meal I fancy delivered to the apartment within an hour of me ordering it and so on and so on! Gordon Bennett! Some people live an amazing lifestyle - and I think ours is great! Too many! in this writing I'll have to have a word with myself; I think I only allowed 2 in each piece of year 6 writing.

Well I must finish as there is an amazingly huge thunder storm on the way and all the electricity may fail.

For those who are interested in birds

Short walk out this morning around school grounds:


brown shrike

olive-backed sunbird

paddyfield pipit

yellow-vented bulbul

streak-eared bulbul

indian roller

common myna

white-vented myna

tree sparrow

pied fantail

coppersmith barbet

zebra dove

red-collared dove

spotted dove

scarlet-backed flowerpecker

asian palm swift

barn swallow

black bittern

chinese pond heron

common iora

large-billed crow

Yesterday I was offered a job at Patana School working as a Learning Support teacher in KS 3 and 4.  I am really looking forward to starting tomorrow at 8.30 when I meet the rest of the team.  Today I had my medical inspection.  I was whisked off to the local hospital in one of the school's minibuses and within five minutes was pulling up outside a modern, well kept building which could easily have been a bank apart form the odd wheelchair coming out of the sliding doors.  A doorman in a crisp white and gold uniform opened the door and saluted me as he welcomed me to the hospital.  I arrived at reception where there where no queues and was ushered into the lift and onto the second floor.  There was some problem with the paper work but a young woman in a smart working suit came to translate.  Quickly the problems were resolved and I took a seat.  Within three minutes a nurse came and asked me to stand against the wall whilst she took my height and weight. then I sat down in front of the waiting room and had my blood pressure taken. 'No problems' the nurse announced to the assembled room.  Thank God for that I thought because the whole room would know if I had. Again, I was asked to take a seat then after only a few minutes was ushered into a small anteroom and blood was taken just to check if I had syphalis.  I think I passed!  It is standard Thai practice for all their foreign teachers if yoiu want a work permit. As I sat for the last part of my medical, I watched the main reception desk with interest.  There were six young girls standing there, each with a specific role.  One would receive the file or report, another would collate it and a third would put it for filing or send it on to another department.  Two nearby would stand and chat and the last would set off for the next report.  Everything was calm and tranquility.  The shops are the same with huge numbers of staff standing ready to serve you.  At times there are more staff than customers.
My medical over, I was directed over to the most important section, the accounts section where I had to sign a chit to say i had had the work done.  You could tell it was an important section because all the staff were displayed with their photographs on a notice board unlike any of the nursing departments.  I signed and was then shown out.  Once more the doorman in his immaculate white uniform called my driver, opened the door for me before closing it once I was safely seated and then we set off back to school.  Just like Barnsley Hospital...not, I thought.

Monday mornings are one of my pleasures because that is when Khun Sia, our maid, comes to tidy the flat, wash the floors, do all the ironing and generally make the apartment spotless.  She speaks very little English and I speak very little Thai.  She is trying hard to improve my understanding of the local language but much of our communicationis done by hand waving and something that looks a bit like charades.  Imagine trying to get your house cleaned, ironing at the right heat, washing at correct temperatures and then organising payday by mime alone.  I'm shattered by the end but she is so willing and we talk about all sorts.  Its bit like Eric Morcombe 'I'm saying the right words but not necessarily in the right language.'  I have bored her with pictures of the family and she is fantastic because she answers all the test questions I give her based on last weeks lesson and still seems to be enthusiastic.  Whoever pays the piper calls the tune. But I will persevere until she knows at least all the present gereration of our family and can answer without error!
Today we have naming of parts, well going shopping, yet another task I have added onto her steadily increasing list.  I have learned the Thai word for bananas and she knows I want milk but how in God's name do you mime semi skimmed.  Anyway, I think we have managed that one and now we are onto natural yogart.  I tried to give her a taste by dipping the spoon into the pot but she pulled a most disgusted face as if |I was poisioning her and said she would do without the tasting.  Next week I can't wait to see what turns up in the fridge, if anything.  

In a previous blog, I told you how I had met this super Thai birder called Gum. Last Wednesday, on his day off, Gum organised a birding trip for me along the northern shores of the Gulf of Thailand. He arranged to pick me up at Big C, a local equivalent of Wilkinsons, and then we set off for Samut Sakhon. There are some well documented birdwatching sites along this stretch of coast incluyding Khok Kham. It is a reliable site for small numbers of the endangered Spoon-billed Sandpiper. However, it was still too early for them to arrive but it was full of waders with loads of Black-tailed Godwits and Sandplover.

The sun beat down with very little cover as I scanned the thousands of waders stretched out in front of me albeit at some distance. A party of Indian ecologists arrived. who were part of a convention touring Thailand looking at conservation projects. They assumed that, since I had a telescope, I was part of the convention and.started talking to me about the success of the mangrove regen.eration project. Their English was very good but despite me explaining that I knew nothing about mangroves, coming as I did from Sheffield where we didn't have much call for mangrove regeneration, they continued to pump me with questions and seemed slightly disappointed when I didn't provide them with enlightenment. Gum and I made a number of excuses and made our way back to the car leaving them scatching their heads. We then went on for lunch in a bamboo hut on the beach.over-looking the sea. 'Aloy' the owner kept saying to me which means delicious and I kept nodding my head as it was truely aloy.  Another great day.

26th August

Earlier this week we went down to Lumpini night market.  It seemed rather subdued and many stalls were closed which was a result, we were told of the troubles earlier this year.  Business is only just starting up again and many folk are still staying away or at least the farang who spend the money ( it means foreigner but is the same as the word for guava)  The market is composed of brightly lit, covered alleyways selling many items of Thai culture including every branded lable you can think of at bargin prices.  Bargining is the norm and is something which takes some time to adjust to since things seem pretty cheap anyway.  Still it doesn't do not to take part and one quickly slips into saying to each other 'that was steep.  Lets go somewhere else'  Although busy the market was not full and over half the stalls were closed.  we walked round for an hour or so and bought nothing.  Not because there wasn't anything to buy.  There was some lovely stuff.  We just have two years in which to sellect exactly what we want so why rush.  We left a house full of things and have no desire to fill up another except with things that are really special.  Most of the most important things aren't for sale anyway. 

Three weeks now

A week ago I was. walking round. King Rama IX P.ark. It was early morning and the joggers and cyclists crowded the paths. Oriental music strained out of tiny PA systems as groups of Thai Che. enthusiasts elegently moved on bended knees. It was already hot and humid despite it being before 7. o'clock. The sound of sunbirds and babblers added to the exotic feel contrasting with the plastic swans that appear on so many ormanmental lakes in the far east, bobbing. languidly on the still water of the lake. These can be rented out for 40 baht at weekends. A canary like Common Iora clambered in the trees next to me seeping like a long-tailed tit and an Indian Roller swooped down taking an insect before swoopuing back up onto the telephone wires. Much of the park is carefully controlled by an army of attendents who are constantly snipping and chopping but there is a small over grown lake surrounded by tall trees and exotic ferns.  The sweet call of Magpie Robins can be heard everywhere and Pied Fantails run about on the ground in front of me living up to their name.  The Park has a number of gardens from around the world, one from China, one from Spain and an English garden although there is not much recognisable. A family of long-tailed shrikes have taken up residence here and huge monitor lizards move stealthily through the water. It was at this point that I met a wonderful local birder called Gum.  He was busy trying to photograph a stork-billed kingfisher although it remained steadfastly elusive all day.  We had a brief view of this huge bird shoot across the back of the pond, its irredesent blue wings and huge orange bill flashing through the reeds but sadly it passed all too quickly. Gum spent the day showing me what the park could offer including some excellent views of Little Minivet which looks like a long tailed redstart.  We shared water and a common interest and although communication was not easy, for long periods of time it didn't matter.  Gum is an artist and emailed me some of his wonderful bird pictures.  He paints these for his own pleasure. He has a gallery and sells his work all over the world.  His style is modern and abstract but he told me that painting is his job, birding is his passion.      

First impressions: Bangkok is not what I was expecting. It is much more developed. The roads are not a nightmare, busy but not as crazy as Iraq or Korea. There is much more vegetation with trees, palms and banana plants being common, interspersed with patches of tall reeds and scrub. Skyscrapers can be found in the middle of Bangkok but much of the suburbs are low rise flats or houses much of which is poor quality. There are many more birds than anticipated. I have already seen sunbirds, flowerpeckers, swifts, swallows, cormorants, mynas, doves and bulbuls from the apartment.


We were taken on a tour round the school yesterday and the centre piece was a stunning new Arts Centre costing over £6million and would grace any city in the UK let alone a school. It has an auditorium that is quite fantastic. The other faculties, especially the sporting ones, are also of high quality and development is still underway. The building work is anticipated to be finished when the time school opens on 20th August and thai workers swarm over the site in something that looks like scene from ‘Challenge Anaka’. Health and safety is rudimentary at best and I sit on our balcony watched them working wincing at some of the dangerous practices.

Our fellow staff have all been superb without exception and our induction couldn’t have been any better. We have eaten at the Red and White restaurant which is only 100 metres away but with both a superb range and quality of food. Our group has been challenging itself to taking one blind dish each day ie duck’s bill one day and fried worms another (a bit tough with a hint of sea salt and grit!)

We went in to Chatachuk market today which is supposedly the biggest market in the world. It is certainly vast with narrow alleyways crammed with stalls selling everything from live animals to herbal medicines. It is so easy to get lost and trying to re-find a stall is almost impossible at the moment. However I suspect we will get to know it pretty well in time. Bargaining is the norm and despite what you might think, I am a novice. We were only there for two hours and hardly scratched the surface. Bangkok is mad and vibrant but not as mad as I expected. The driving is interesting but forgiving and everyone says ‘mai pen rai’ which means chill basically. Eunice and I attended our Thai culture classes last week and this phrase was given to us. In my usual pedantic way, I wanted to know how to use it appropriately. Little did I know that a graphic illustration was soon to be provided. I was returning from visiting King Rama Park IX having had a good morning for birding adding Common Iora and Asian Koel (a black bird the size of a jackdaw and a most haunting, loud tropical call). I had given the taxi driver the location and should have realised that his expression was a little blank. Thai’s are far too polite to ask you for clarification (especially a taxi driver who thinks he might lose a job!) we set off and headed almost in the right direction. When arriving at some traffic lights, I used my newly learned skills and told the taxi driver to go straight on. Unfortunately my pronunciation left a little to be desired and he corrected me. He then proceeded to give me a Thai language class in correct pronunciation for directions, ensuring I repeated them correctly. By this point we had arrived at my destination and I told him to pull in left which he promptly did by turning into a narrow street. I then gave him the instruction jud which means to stop. At this he laughed and carried on, repeating the word and also various other Thai directional words. I said jud again only more forcefully and still he laughed and carried on repeating the phrases. I said ‘listen, I really mean jud,’ thinking how far could this go on for! He had no English so assumed it was all part of my Thai education course. By this time I was on the point of saying ‘for Christ’s sake jud!’ We had already travelled half a mile. At last he pulled into a grand hotel which he assumed I had been heading for. I got out and paid him thinking it was easier to walk back. At this point a security guard came up and challenged me and he also spoke no English so I just pointed that I was leaving. But Thai’s are nothing if not extremely polite and helpful and he rushed into the hairdressing salon and dragged the hair dresser out leaving a customer in mid cut. She spoke good English and I explained what had happened. She laughed, was highly apologetic even though she had done nothing and told me she would get the taxi driver to take me back. I pointlessly pleaded with her not to bother as it was nothing for me to walk back. She hailed the taxi driver who was still hanging around and explained what had happened. He looked extremely embarrassed and waied a number of times. The door was opened and as I slipped into the back seat I said mai pen rai and smiled. Everyone breathed a sigh of relief and smiled saying Mai pen rai. The taxi driver took me back to school for free.



Today the cleaner has started. Her name is Khun Sia. The booking of her was a bit stressful with Eunice, myself a translator sitting round one side of a table and Khun Sia on the other whilst we hammered out rates terms and conditions. Finally deal was struck and she seems fine. Surprisingly, English is not as well spoken her as it was in Korea.



Yesterday, I played squash for the first time in 25 years and Eunice swam half a kilometre in the Olympic sized pool. Both are quite an achievement as we have been out of the exercise loop for some time. I was completely wiped out and sweated half my body weight as the air con was not switched on. Eunice was serene as always but proud of her achievements. I watched her swim her last few lengths as I cooled down from the squash. A huge irredesent kingfisher flapped languidly across the pool and a sunbird busily flew in and out of her nest only inches above my head.

Eunice’s worries about her asthma and the pollution seem to have been groundless. In fact she seems better than she was in UK except for some nasty bites. The temperature is high and the humidity is like going into your bathroom when you have a bath or walking into a swimming centre.