Nepal 2012

Over the Songkran holiday, Eunice and I went to Nepal for ten days with other staff from Patana and had a fantastic holiday.  Most of the others went off and did their own trek but Bridget joined with us. The country was breath-taking and the local people so kind and generous that it make it, undoubtedly, a country to which we would like to return at some point in the future.  There remains so much of this fascinating country still to explore.
We flew into Kathmandu and spent the first few days exploring the city which is full of narrow alleys, chaotic traffic and religious artifacts hidden around every corner. Next we took at taxi over the winding roads of the foothills of the Himalayas to Pokhara.  Here we met with Surya, a local birder with a passion for raptors, who Bob had put us in touch with.  He turned out to be the most kind and thoughtful host anyone could possiblly want to meet, guiding us through the mountains and showing such generousity with both his time and knowledge as well as introducing us to three generations of his family including his charming wife and grandaughter.  Thanks Surya, we owe you one!

The birding was great and I have included a selection of the better shots.  This Brahminy Starling was nesting in the middle of Pokhara although Chestnut-tailed were more common.

Verditer Flycatcher were everywhere and were very vocal with their sweet but slightly discordant song.

We found a number of flycatchers but this was the only Little Pied Flycatcher we saw.


On the journey from Kathmandu to Pokhara we saw this Woolly-necked Stork.  It turned out to be the only one of the trip as well!

Surya had arranged for us to visit a 'Vulture Restaurant' near to Pokhara.  Since it cannot be used as food, when a cow dies the local raptor group are given the carcass to dispose of.  They skin it then put the carcass out for the vultures who collect in their dozens to get a free meal. There are a number of feeding sites around Nepal so if you are birding out there then get in touch.  The work the raptor groups are doing is fantastic and a generous donation is all they ask.  As a result, the numbers of vultures are increasing, some species being globally threatened.  We saw numbers of both Red-headed and White-rumped as well as the expected Griffon Vultures.

Do you see what I see?  Is that lunch arriving?
The vultures loped along the path after the cart carrying the dead cow only a few feet away from the men pushing it.  It had hardly been dropped on the floor when they piled in with unceremonious greed.  Not a place to fall asleep on the job I think.

A lone White-rumped Vulture wanders round looking for an opening in the seething mass of the bigger Griffon Vultures.

This Red-headed Vulture waited in a tree but still managed to get a full meal.  The site is brilliant, based in a deep canyon with the snow capped Annapurna range towering up as a backdrop.

After eating the vultures then take to the sky and fly around or chill on the boulders nearby.  Surya told me that they don't need to eat for another week or so.  The flight identification is easy with such good views, this one is adult White-rumped with a young bird in the photograph below.

I think the bird below is a Eurasian Griffon judging by the dirty underwing and the shorter tail.  Adult Himalayan have a cleaner underwing and immatures have a darker one. 

Surya organised and joined us for a trek into the Annapurna range starting at Nayapul, then moving to Ghorepani, across to Ghandruk and returning back to Nayapul.  We also had the services of an excellent porter called Budi who began to get really interested in birds.  He would be a real asset for any birders wanting to trek in the area.  He has excellent eyes and is quick to spot birds and very happy to point them out.  Surya, Budi and I went out birding for an hour or so every morning and evening after we had finished the main trek! 

It was on one of these evening excursions that I heard a bird that sounded like a Song Thrush but repeated it song three times not the usual two.  It turned out to be this White-collared Blackbird.

I think this is Rufous-breasted Bush Robin.  Smart bird anyway.

We climbed up Poon Hill for the early morning sunrise.  Well worth the effort to see the mountains but also the birding was great at the top.  Lots of birds in the first few hours of light including plenty of Rufous-naped Tit, Olive-backed Pipits and Mountain Bulbuls.  Fire-tailed Sunbird were obvious and loads of Rosefinches and Laughing Thrushes.  Budi was concerned about being out on my own as he believed there were still wild tigers nearby.

This flock of Curlew migrated through the mountains heading north.  It was freezing cold and low cloud swirled around the mountains and I was filled with admiration at their efforts.  It was quite special seeing them fly past at 4500metre up.

Also at the top of Poon Hill were a number of Collared Grosbeak. 

The rhododendrons were fantastic, their vivid reds looking like spots of blood against the snow capped mountains.  Whole hillsides are carpeted in their blossoms at this time of year.

Brightly coloured prayer flags flutter in the cool breeze. 

Everything bird I have posted seems to start with the word Rufous so here is another, Rufous-breasted Accentor, again at the top of Poon Hill.

So far, I am half way round the trek and will post some pictures during the coming week.