Two for the Price of One
I remember my father saying to me as he grew older, ‘I don’t know where the time goes!’ I find myself using the same excuse again on this blog. However, I really don’t know where the time goes. Eunice and I have been out in Thailand for almost six months and it has flown past. So much already accomplished, emphasising how much still remains to do. Only 203 bird species seen but we still have the northern highlands and the southern reserves to explore. At least I feel confident with most local stuff.
Still, what has happened since my last posting. Eunice and I went west round the Gulf of Thailand to a place near Petchaburi called Leam Pak Bia. We stopped in a cabin right next to the beach and the wind became surprisingly strong overnight, raising quite a swell on the sea and making the waves break over the low concrete barrier that separated us. As we looked out into the darkness, it did make me reflect for a moment on the dramatic and frightening events that swept across Puhket’s beaches on Boxing Day six years ago. It still leaves an impression on those living here, many of whom lost someone known to them. At such moments we feel in awe and powerless against nature’s force.
The area is a mosaic of salt pans, rolled billiard table flat, then flooded with shallow sea water. It teems with waders, who rise and fall into the sky in restless waves of movement emulating the nearby sea as they search for the best feeding spots. The best time is early morning so Eunice and I arrived as a thin stain of light spread across the sky which rapidly grew as the red orb of the sun chased away the darkness. It was so peaceful. As I scanned the huge flocks of waders, one paler bird particularly attracted my attention. It was fairly close and was soon confirmed as a Spoon-billed Sandpiper. I determined to take some video footage but as I was setting up the camera, a pair of Peregrine flew over the road and the waders scattered into the air in one panicking mass of wings. As soon as the raptors passed the birds began to settle back onto the salt pans and to my amazement I quickly located the Sandpiper in the same area. I tried to describe where it was to Eunice but she seemed to be giving all the wrong responses. At last we both settled on the bird and I managed to get some fairly decent film footage before it flew off once more. Yesterday I was showing the video to Emma, my daughter who is staying with us over the Christmas period, and I proudly pointed out the Spoon-billed Sandpiper to her. ‘It’s a rare bird that’ I told her wishing her to fully appreciate the significance. ‘So what’s that?’ she said pointing to a different bird on the edge of the frame. Sure enough it was another Spoon-billed Sand. Eunice then chipped in with ‘No wonder you thought I wasn’t following your directions properly. There were always two birds.’ My humiliation was complete. If I can get the film to upload, have a look and see how many you can find! We did go on to find two unusual and rare birds for Thailand, two Common Starlings on a rubbish tip and Brahminy Starling.Christmas was meant to be a time when almost all the family would come over to Thailand and got together. However, the weather in UK soon ruined that idea as first Frances and Julian then Mark and Heather had their flights cancelled and the alternatives offered were either flying on Christmas day or soon afterwards. Disappointing for everyone but we were fortunate that at least Emma was able to be with us. Our Christmas Day lunch was taken at the Marriott Hotel on the banks of the Chao Phrya river eating turkey, ale and pie! We had a pre-selected air conditioned table inside with views over the river. Most importantly, we had cheese, loads of it and good quality. Simple pleasures.
Whist Emma has been here it has been great to go and visit the wonderful places which we still hadn’t explored in Bangkok. These included the Grand Palace, with the Emerald Buddha, and Wat Arun. Both of these were fabulous although the Palace was crowded with tourists. It was a fabulous day with clear blue skies, unusual as there is often a haze of pollution hanging over the city. Every brick and carving showed in sharp relief and the colours were blinding in their crispness. The gold smothered chedi reflected so much light you had to shield your eyes even behind sunglasses. The grandeur was spectacular. By contrast, the following day we booked to take a Thai cookery course based in the Khlong Toei area of Bangkok, one of its poorest. It was organised by a charity called Helping Hands who first take you to a bustling local market where you buy your ingredients then are taken to a house inside the slum and are taught how to cook three splendid Thai dishes. Once again, the light and colours in the market were stark as we moved from bright sunshine to dark tunnels created by the narrow space between the stalls. 
Catfish flopped in shallow trays of water and bundles of frogs squirmed in sacking bags, waiting to be dispatched to ensure freshness. At one point every tray was filled with roasted insects piled high, ready for consumption although not by me you will be pleased to hear. The thought of slipping something that looks remarkably like a cockroach into my mouth is not my idea of a perfect meal. 
Having purchased our food, we were taken down a warren of narrow streets with stinking, open sewers spewing opaque, black water along them. At one point a small six year old boy was bouncing his ball against the wall and he glanced up to watch us pass. As his concentration slipped, so did his ball and it rolled inexorably off the rim of the path and into the thick, dark water. For a moment the youngster looked in consternation at his ball floating sluggishly amongst the other flotsam, then he bent down, fished it out and continued playing. 
Some things are just too valuable to be wasted. Off to the mountains in the west next week to the largest nature reserve in Thailand (Keang Krachen). Loads of birds and possible tigers, leopards and elephants. I'll keep you posted.
